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Shopping in Istanbul is unabashedly fun because it is almost as much of a cultural experience as a way of spending money. The memory of the tea- drinking, bargaining and discussion that took place during a particular purchase becomes a part of the item you take home.
No one should miss the Kapali Carsi (the Covered Bazaar) in the heart of the old city, a hive of over 4000 little shops that is one of the original precursors of the malls that have become such fixtures in the West. There are other interesting shopping districts arty areas such as Ortakoy, chic Nisantasi for fashion, the delightful Spice Bazaar (Misir ÇarSiss) for Turkish food, and Galatasayay Balikpazari a unique fish market.
The city's growing number of up market hotels have plenty of small boutiques stocked with superior merchandise. But their prices are usually high. So if you have the time, shop around. Here is a brief guide to some shops that may be away from the Bazaar and the hotels, but are worth a visit. Antiques

Istanbul is a wonderful place for antique collectors. The choice runs from traditional Turkish craft pieces to some fine European furniture. Browsing is a great treat. Store owners are always ready to explain the history of their wares. Learning about the different uses for an antique item can be an education in itself. Prices vary greatly; the fancier the shop, the more one pays. Antikarnas Kuloglu Mahallesi, Faik Pasa Yokusu 15, Cukurcuma, Tel: 25159 28, 2514135 Turkisk, Ottoman, and European antiques and curiosities, religious and decoyative objects.

Antikhane FaikpaSa Yokusu 41, Cukurcuma, Tel: 25195 87, 245 74 54 Turkey's largest antiques warehouse with nine jlooys of prints, maps, books, Islamic and oriental arts, Turkrsh and European paintings, l8th and l9th century furniture. Artisan Sakayik Sokak 54/1, Nisantasi Tel: 247 90 81 Old prints, maps, books, paintings.
Artrium I Tunel Passage 58&7, Tunel, Beyoglu, Tel: 25143 02, Fax: 249 89 83 A wide range of prints, cards, old movie end theatre posters together with old and new frames in an authentic Pera atmospheye. Open 09.30-19.00 every day except Sunday.
Artrium II Sofyali Sokak 9, Tunel, Beyoglu, Tel: 244 27 58 Antique frames.
Cukurcuma A lively group of shops specialising in country" antiques lining the back streets of Beyoglu, once the city's most distinguished district and now trying to recoverfrom its shabby reputation.
Galeri Alfa Ltd. Faikpa,sa Yokufu, Fazilet Apu 47/2, Çukurcuma, Beyoglu, Tel: 25116 72 Antique books, maps and prints from Tuykey's diverse past.
Hikmet + Pinar Faikpasa Yokusu 36, Cukurcuma, Tel: 243 24 00, 293 05 75 A new shop selling inteyesting old weapons, wood works, etc.
Morhor Bit Pazari (flea market) Kirik Tulumba Sokak 13/22, Aksaray A five-storey flea market, filled with furniture and collectables.
Kadikoy Antikacdar Carsisi (flea market) Moda Caddesi, Tellalzade Sokak, Cakiroglu Isham, Kadikoy (on the Asian side)
Kuledibi Bit Pazari (flea market) (near Galata Tower,Sishane) An alley of about a dozen shops. Lots of furniture, some collectibles.
Kusav Hasfirin Caddesi, Sinanpasa Is Merkezi, 3rd floor, Besiktas Tel: 227 34 85, 260 77 00 This "Foundation for the Conservation and Promotion of Culture and Arts" organizes antiques auctions every other Sunday, and offers expertise service.
Mecidiyekoy Antikacilar Carsisi Tomurcuk Sokak 1-7, Mecidiyekoy A large building with shops selling lots of elaborate pieces in the l9th century style.
Oda Cukurcuma Caddesi 52, Çukurcuma, Tel: 245 50 51, 245 50 52 Authentic, antique handmade objects. Old Ottoman plates and candlesticks, glasses, silk, silver and handmade wooden toys.
Sofa Art and Antiques Nuruosmaniye Caddesi 42, Cagaloglu, Tel: 527 4142 A fine selection of old prints and maps, ceramics, miniatures, calligraphy, textiles, antique rugs, silver and contemporary art.
Sofa Art & Antiques swissotel the Bosphorus, 2nd floor of the shopping arcade, Macka, Tel: 259 02 27, Fax: 249 89 83 Old Turkish ceramics, miniatures, calligraphy, old prints and maps, paintings and a large selection of authentic gifts. Open from 09.00- 21.00 every day.
Atlas Passage Istiklal Caddesi 209, Beyoglu (same entrance as for Atlas Cinema) An arcade filled with little curiosity shops.
Cep Art Gallery Galip Dede Caddesi 68, Tunel, Beyoglu, Tel: 245 19 96 A small shop selling original paintings and quality frames.
Elite Sakayik Sokak 63/14, Nisantasi, Tel: 232 4319, 234 42 89 A good selection of imported glassware, including Meissen from Germany, Orrefors from Sweden and Moser from Czechoslovakia. Also pure silver cutlery. Galeri Çerçeve Galip Dede Caddesi, Timarci Sokak 5, Tunel, Tel: 251 26 51; also on the Asian side, Pembegul Sokak 4, Suadiye, Tel: (216) 411 20 40, 357 44 80 Fine quality picture frames.
Istanbul Nandicrafts Centre Sultanahmet, (beside the Yesil Ev Hotel), Tel: 517 67 82 A series of craftmen's workshops in a restored medrese (religious school). Visitors can watch and buy the artisans' creations. Interesting and fun.
Krisna Çukurcuma Caddesi 42 Cukurcuma, Tel: 244 06 60 Indian handicrafls.
Levant Koleksiyon Tunel Square 8, Tunel, Tel: 293 63 33 A good selection of old postcards, books, prints and ephemera from the l9th century. May Covered Bazaar, Koltuk Kazazlar Sokak 10, Eminonu, Tel: 526 68 23; Covered Bazaar, Kolancilar Sokak 7, Eminonu, Tel: 522 56 24 Handwoven kilim covered handbags, wallets, briefcases, cushions, as well as some clothing.
Ortakoy Artists gather in Ortakoy on Sundays to display theiy handicrafts and paintings along the streets beside the Bosphorus.
Ottomania Istiklal Caddesi, Sofyali Sokak 30/32, Tunel, Beyoglu Tel: 243 2157, 243 2158 Mostly old engravings, calligraphy and maps, some rare books.
Pasabahçe Istiklal Caddesi 314, Beyoglu, Tel: 244 05 44, and in Maslak Tuykey's premier glassware maker, with retail shaps everywhere. The largest is in Maslak. Glasses, vases, pitchers, traditional blue and white stripe Cesmibulbul and porcelain tableware. Reasonable prices and great for gifts.
Rolyef Art Enterprises Galatasaray, Emir Nevruz Sokagi 16, Beyoglu, Tel: 244 04 94, 293 93 q7 Rich Turkish ornamentation, engravings, Islamic miniatures, calligraphy, gilding, marbling.
Sofa Art & Antiques swissotel The Bosphorus, 2nd floor of the shopping arcade, Macka, Tel: 259 02 27, Fax: 249 89 83 Old Turkish ceramics, miniatures, calligraphy, old prints and maps, paintings and a layge selection of authentic gifts. Open from 09.00- 21.00 every day.
Sofa Art and Antiques Nuruosmaniye Caddesi 42, Cagaloglu, Tel: 527 4142 A fine selection of old prints and maps, ceramics, miniatures, calligraphy, textiles, antique rugs, silver and contemporary art.
Urart Abdi Ipekci Caddesi 18/1, Nisantasi, Tel: 246 7194 Swissotel, Tel: 259 02 21 Distinctive silver and gold jewellery, paintings and sculptures; a must foy lovers of beautiful objects.
Books,Cassettes and Stationery Shops


number of shops sell English, French and German books, magazines and newspapers. The mark-up on books is extremely high and the selection poor, although improving. Antiquarian bookstores, although rather costly, often have interesting texts and searching through stacks of used books can be rewarding, although a bit dusty.

ABC Istiklal Caddesi 461, Beyoglu Books and magazines in English, German, French.
Afa Istiklal Caddesi, Bekar Sokak 17/A, Beyoglu, Tel: 249 2218. A two-storey bookshop which sells its own publications and many hard to find Tuykish subjects including decoyation, horticulture etc. Afa wild order any book not in stock.
Akademi Kitabevi Valikonagi Caddesi, Akkavak Sokak 2, Nisantasi, Tel: 248 43 96 Books and magazines in English, French and German. Cassettes and CDs.
Akusta CD & MI·fi Showroom Nazmi Akbaci I,s Merkezi, 95-96, Maslak, Tel: 276 49 28 Classical, jazz, pop, rock, new age, international and ethnic music.
Aslihan Sahaflar Carsisi Galatasaray, Beyoglu Antiquarian book mayket.
Beyazit Sahaflar Carsisi On the Beyazit side of the Covered Bazaar, lined with shops selling old and new books in many languages. A lively and typical old Istanbud atmosphere, friendly shopkeepers, students, academics.
Bosphorus University Bookstore Northern campus, Hisarustu English and Turkish titLes, a good collection of reference books and magazines.
Dunya Bookstores Books and magazines in major European languages.


  • Tunel Istiklal Caddesi 469, Beyoglu, Tel: 24910 06





  • Kadikoy I,s Merkezi 10/137, Kadikoy (on the Asian side), Tel: (216) 347 79 06





  • Cevdetpasa Caddesi 232/1, Bebek, Tel: 265 7103





  • Tesvikiye Caddesi 164/3, Nisantasi, Tel: 247 05 90





  • Capitol Shopping Mall, Altunizade, Tel: 3911927





  • Narhbahçe Sokak 15, Cagaloglu, Tel: 513 50 79





  • Also outlets at the Hilton, Swisstel, Holiday Inn, Princess.



Eren Sofyali Sokak 34, Tunel Tel: 25128 58 Old and new art and history books, old maps, miniatures.
French/Italian/Spanish Bookstore Meselik Sokak, Sekban Han 12-14, Beyoglu, Tel: 249 00 99
German Bookstore Istiklal Caddesi 481, Beyoglu
Momer Kitabevi Yeni Carsi Caddesi 28/A, Galatasaray, Tel: 249 59 02 Great stock of books in English and a cafefor browsers.
International Book Mouse Nisbetiye Caddesi, Dr. Ihsan Aksoy Sokak 7/1, Camlik, Etiler, Tel: 257 9129 Books in English, mostly bestselleys. A good collection of children's publications and cassettes.
Karum Akkavak Sokak 19-21, Ni,santaçi Tel: 24179 88 Art books and stationery supplies, mostly imported.
Librairie de Pera Galip Dede Sokak 22, Tunel Tel: 245 49 98 One of the oldest and best antiquarian bookshops in Istanbul. A large collection of Turkish, Greek, Armenian, Arabic and European books.
Net Ramada Hotel, Laleli, Tel: 513 64 31; Galleria Shopping Mall, Ataköy, Tel: 559 09 50 Books and magazines in major European languages. Pandora Buyuk Parmakkapi Sokak 3, Beyoglu, Tel: 24516 67 An interesting selection of the newest Turkish books, postcards. Also books and magazines in English.
Remzi Kitabevi Akmerkez Shopping Mall, Basement floor No:121, Tel: 282 02 45; Rumeli Caddesi 44, Nisantasi, Tel: 234 54 75; Cagaloglu, Tel: 522 2014 A large and well-displayed selectzon of books and magazines for adults and children in English, Turkish and other languages. Popular with foreigners.
Robinson Crusoe Istiklal Caddesi 389, Tunel, Beyoglu, Tel: 293 69 68, 293 69 77 Spread on two floors, this book emporium is comfortably arranged and friendly. Has a large collection, including publications in European languages, and will order books from abroad upon individual request.
Sahaf Dumlupinar Sokak 12, Kadikoy, Tel: (216) 414 42 06 A large antiquarian book shop spread on fourfloors, on the Asian side of the city, which also has a cosy cafe.
Vakkorama Music Shop BPM Vakkorama Department Store, Rumeli Caddesi, Nisantasi Brand new store offering the latest CDs in jazz, R & B, Soul, Funk, Word Music, New Age, Underground, Garage, etc. Also plays great music from international DJs. If you can't find the books you I want, consider ordering from abroad. Two good ways to do this are:
Book Call 59 Elm Street, New Canaan, CT 06840, USA, Tel: (1) 203-96fr5470 Fax: (1) 203-96fr4329 Direct access to any US book sn print. Responsive to your needs 24 hours a day, seven days a week. Call or fax your order. Gift- wrapping and worldwide mailing. Accepts Amex, Mastercard, Visa, and US checks. Ask for their catalogue, Bibliomania, an annotated listing of new hardback books in a wide variety of categories.
The Good Book Guide 91 Great Russell Street, London WClB 3PS Tel: (44) 171-580 8466 Fax: (44) 171-323 0048 A mail order service with a comprehensive, independent review magazine and a selection of the best hardback and paperback books, both fiction and non-fiction. Subscription £'17 a year' in return you yeceive six £'2 discount tokens. Effcient service.
Carpets and Kilims


Most of the main carpet shops are in or around the Covered Bazaar. But there are a few good ones outside its confines.

Antikart Istiklal Caddesi 209, Atlas Kuyumcular Carsisi Tel: 252 44 82, 252 44 85 A large collection of old and rare kilims from a connoisseur. Also ceramics, antique and ethnic jewellery, imported curiosity objects.
Hazal Hali Mecidiyekoy Koprusu Sokak 27- 29, Ortakoy, Tel: 26172 33 Carpets and kilims, tastefully displayed.
Heritage Caferiye Sokak 6/A, Sultanahmet, Tel: 513 6150, 522 95 O1 Reproductions ofantique kilims and carpets, using natural dyes.
Kilim Shop Conrad Istanbul Hotel Tel: 227 35 83 Specializing in kilims only.
Muhlis Gunbatti Perdahcilar Caddesi 48, Covered Bazaar, Tel: 51165 62, 527 09 87 Percious carpets and kilims, as well as traditional Turkis textiles such as `suzani' and `ikat'.
Ortakoy Carpets & Kilims Muallim Naci Caddesi, Yelkovan Sokak 3/3 Ortakoy. Tel· 260 58 36 A wide collection of Anatolian hand woven carpets and kilims. Works in collaboration with Adnan & Hasan from the Grand Bazaar
Pasha Kariye Mahallesi, Cami Sokak 8 Edirnekapi Tel: 534 80 71, 534 4916 Right beside the famous Kariye Museum (Chuych of Chora), this carpet "boutique" sells beautiful handmade rugs and kilims.
Punto Gazi Sinanpasa Sokak 17, Vezirhan, Çagaloglu, Tel: 51108 53, Fax: 513 97 47 A beautiful shop located in a 17th century caravanserai building. Fine selection of anttque and nei carpets gathered from around thc country.
Sengor Carpet Mouse Abdi Ipekci Caddesi, Feyzi Feyzioglu Sokak 1/2, Nisantasi Tel: 247 9170, 240 72 23 Mim Kemal Oke Caddesi 9, Nisantasi, Tel: 225 46 40, 225 46 41 One of the oldest and best carpet deaLers in town.
Sisko Osman Halicilar Caddesi 49, Covered Bazaar, Tel: 52617 08; and Zincirli Han 15, Covered Bazaar Tel: 526 72 85 A favourite offoreign yesidents.
Department Stores and Shopping Centres Akmerkez Etiler, Tel: 282 O170 A giant, very luxurious shopping mail which offers everything a shopping pro would need, from exclusive internationaL brands (including Ralph Lauren) to eateries and a superfood market, to cinemas. Open seven days a week, 10.00-22.00
Carrefour Icerenkoy, Tel: (216) 445 0815 A shopping mall offering around 100 shops and fastfood outlets, on the Asian side.
Carsi Maslak, Tel: 285 05 20 Popular department store selling clothes and shoes foy men, women and children at reasonable prices, including discounted items from well-known brands. Houseware, gifts and a good skin-care and cosmetics department. A good place to buy toys which are often overpriced elsewhere. Fast food restaurant on the premises. Always crowded.
Galleria Atakoy, Tel: 559 95 60 The first modern shopping mall of the city. A Large collection of shops, including the outlets of most major chains. Open every day.
Pabetland Buyukdere Caddesi 57/1, Maslak, Tel: 285 2185 Department store. Stylish clothes and housewares, some imported. A pleasant in-stoye cafe.
Fabrics and Home Furnishings


You will find a row of upholstery and drapery shops in Harbiye along Halaskargazi Caddesi. Many shops will also make up and install curtains, shades and drapes. For brass curtain rods, many of the brass shops around Sishane and the Galata Tower will make them to order. Other places to discover:

Aykut Hamzagil Abidei Hurriyet Caddesi 13, Osmanbey, Tel: 2312115 Outstandingly beautiful, locally made upholstery and drapery fabrics in pure linen and cotton.
Bahcesaray Faikpasa Sokak 41, Çukurcuma, Tel: 25195 87, 245 74 54 Wooden garden furniture.
Beymen Mome Arts Rumeli Caddesi 81, Nisantasi, Tel: 24112 73; Halaskargazi Caddesi 230, ,Sisli, Tel: 230 09 61; also at Akmerkez Shopping Mall in Etiler, and in Ciftehavuzlar (Asian side), Tel: (216) 41133 78 Tasteful home decoration, furniture and accessories.
Creative Bath Valikonagi Caddesi, Prof. Dr. Orhan Ersek Sokak 3, Nisantasi, Tel: 247 30 46. Great selection of bathroom accessories. Ideal giJds.
Dorya Home Krizantem Sokak 15,1 Levent, Tel: 278 54 41 Regency-style mahogany furnitures, upholstery, wall papers and accessories.
Kanape (Showroom) Tesvikiye Caddesi, Atiye Sokak, Varol Apt 73, Tel: 2614619; (Headquarters) Matbuat Sokak No:11/13, Esentepe, Tel: 275 67 32, 212 04 92/93-96, Fax: 275 67 43 Producers offine furniture and a wide range of upholstery fabrics, wallpaper and table top accessories for the home.
Koleksiyon Mobilya Haci Osman Bayin 1, Kefelikoy, Buyukdere, Tel: 22313 20 Modern and post-modern furniture, well-designed and locally made, displayed in the extensive grounds of a converted factory building.
Kulp Store Bagdat Caddesi 53/2fr27 (next to Motta Patisserie), Kiziltoprak(Asian side), Tel: (216) 418 08 50 A unique door handle shop offering an extensive variety.
Open Sesame Prof. O Ersek Sokak 52/1, Tesvikiye, Tel: 248 86 24 An artist-run home decoration and accessories store. Hand-made pillows, patchwork sofas, coffee tables etc. Open every day, except Sunday,10.00-19.00
Room to Go E5 Highway, Mavi Evler, Amiral Orbay Caddesi 1, Kucukyali (Asian side), Tel: (216) 417 35 27 Complete home furnishings from this American furniture store chain.
Sivasli Istanbul Yazmacisi Yaglikcilar Sokak 57, Covered Bazaar, Tel: 526 77 48 Colourful, hand-woven and hand- embroidered textile pieces, both old and new.
Vakko Istiklal Caddesi 123-125, Beyoglu On the ground floor, an extensive selection of upholstery and drapery fabrics, both local and imported, plus a decoration service. Upstairs, elegant dress fabrics.
Fashion Istanbul's wonderful clothing shops are clustered in the uptown areas of Tesvikiye, Nisantasi, Osmanbey, Sisli, Beyoglu, and, on the Asian side, Bagdat Caddesi and Bahariye Caddesi. Quality is uniformly good and prices are affordable. Keep an eye out for the twice- yearly indirim (sales) starting in July and January.
Artisan Zafer Sokak 5, Nisantasi Tel: 234 37 40, 23164 33 Original designs. Embroidered silk and lace clothes for women.
Benetton Rumeli Caddesi 16/A, Nisantasi, Tel: 230 84 94, 247 9141; Akmerkez, Etiler, Tel: 282 02 37; and many other locations. locally made to Benetton specifications by the Beymen Group. Beymen Halaskargazi Caddesi 230, Osmanbey, Tel: 230 09 61 (8 lines) Istiklal Caddesi 2/1, Beyoglu Tel: 249 49 95; Rumeli Caddesi 81, Nisantasi, Tel: 24112 73 Superb quality Tuykish-made men's and women's clothing, shoes and accessories. Excellent service. Beymen Mega Store Ak Merkez Shopping Mall, Etiler Tel: 282 03 80, 282 03 99 Beymen's latest branch at the Ak Merkez Shopping Mall. The `mega store" is so-called for lts wide range of products from clothing and cosmetics to stationery and furniture. Shopping pros say this is Turkey's answer to Saks Fifth Avenue.
BM Club Istiklal Caddesi, Vakif Gocek Ham, Beyoglu, Tel: 249 49 95 Casual elegnnce from the Beymen Group for the young and sporty. David People Ak Merkez Shopping Mall, Etiler, Tel: 282 05 31 Young Tuykish fashion and great cotton underwear.
DKNY Donna Karan New York Bostan Sokak (Karakol Sokak) 4/1, Tesvikiye, Tel: 230 66 86, 240 32 92 Exclusive women's and men's wear boutique.
Derishow Bagdat Caddesi 381, Suadiye (on the Asian side), Tel: (216) 360 5179 Nisantasi, Tel: 2311510; Akmerkez, Tel: 282 04 08 Stylish Turkish fashion and leather wear.
Dreams Designer Mim Kemal Oke Caddesi 11/2, Nisantasi, Tel: 23148 65, 23156 13; also Bagdat Caddesi, Ozlu Apt. 412/3, Suadiye, Tel: (216) 41160 37 Top quality women's wear from Europe, including Givency, Ronit Zilha, Moygan, Dolce Vita, Suraboya, Tadashi, Carling; and Kamosho.
Edwards of Misar Yahya Kemal Caddesi 36, Rumelihisan, Tel: 263 6601 Exclusive gentlemen's clothing imported from England.
Endican Bostan Sokak 7, Tesvikiye Tel: 2612110 Italian men's and women's wear
Foli Abdi Ipekçi Caddesi 55/A, Tesvikiye Tel: 2411618, 248 48 03 Women's clothing for large sizes. Tasteful and fashionable designs.
Gazellini Abdi Ipekçi Caddesi 2, Nisantasi, Tel: 233 37 49 A large stoye selling over 40 different international fashion and cosmetic brands.
Hugo Boss Valikonagi Caddesi 81, Nisantasi, Tel: 240 48 08, 225 09 90 Top quality men's wear Lacoste Rumeli Caddesi 52/A, NiSantasi, Tel: 248 86 61; Bagdat Caddesi 316/5, Erenkoy (on the Asian side), Tel: (216) 360 87 68; and Galleria Shopping Mall, Atakoy A local division of the famous brond; much of the merchandise sold here is made in Turkey and costs less than you would expect.
Lee Cooper Akmerkez Shopping Mall, Etiler, Tel: 282 04 61; Galleria Shopping Mall, Ataköy, Tel: 6611145 All the old favourites. The first foreign brand of jeans to be produced in Turkey under license.
Limon Rumeli Caddesi 26/28, Osmanbey, Tel: 234 3314; and several other locations Good quality, sporty fashion for the young.
Marks & Spencer Valikonagi Caddesi (on the corner of Abdi Ipekci Caddesi), Nisantasi, Tel: 233 35 26 Recently opened and already extremely popular MaxMara Tesvikiye Caddesi 73, Macka Tel: 259 65 50 Elegant Italian designs.
Mudo Collection Tesvikiye Caddesi 143, Nisantasi, Tel: 225 29 41-50; Mudo City, Akmerkez Shopping Mall (2nd floor), Etiler, Tel: 282 04 73; Carrefour Shopping Centre, Erenkoy One of Turkey's best fashion chains. Stylish, top quality men's and women's casual clothing, and home accessories.
Mudo City Rumeli Caddesi 58, NiSantasi, Tel: 2313643 The latest department store from one of the best fashion companies in Turkey. Spread on 8 floors, offering women's, men's and children's wear, and home accessories.
OXXO Galleria Shopping Mall, No: 346- 348, Atakoy, Tel: 560 36 39; Istiklal Caddesi No:146, Tel: 249 42 63; Akmerkez Shopping Mall, 358, Etiler, Tel: 282 04 25; Capitol Shopping Mall, No: 63, Altunizade, Tel: (216) 39119 00; Carrefour Shopping Mall, No:15 B1, Kozyatagi, Tel: (216) 380 11 10; General Sukru Kanatli Sokak 2, Balcirkoy, Tel: 542 99 32 Inexpenslve and cheerful clothing for the young.
Pierre Cardin Baytar Ahmet Sokak, Sair Nigar IS Merkezi 42/1, Osmanbey, Tel: 23 013 57, 234 03 31 Brances in: Ak Merkez, Etiler, Tel: 282 O153 Capitol Shopping Centre, Altunizade, Tel: 39118 48, 39118 49 Exclusive imported men's fashion and accessories.
Polo Garage Sakayik Sokak 47/2, Nisantasi Tel: 231 51 82 High quality, elegant clothes foy women.
Silk & Cashmere Ak Merkez Shopping Mall, Etiler, Tel: 282 02 35; Galleria Shopping Mall, Atakoy, Tel: 559 4516 A local point for tourists and the foreign community in Turkey for its exclusive and affordable cashmere and silk. Women's and men's wear. Shops also in Carrefour, Izmir Ankara, Zurich, Beylin, New York.
Vakko Istiklal Caddesi 123-125, Beyoglu Tel: 25140 92; Akmerkez Shopping Mall, Etiler, Tel: 282 06 95 (4 lines) The oldest and one of the most elegant fashion houses in Istanbul. Beautiful scarves in original designs. Has a very good fabric department, cafe and art gallery, and a discount outlet in Meyter Branch at Akmerkez Shopping Mall.
Vakkorama Osmanll Sokak 13, Taksim, Tel: 251 15 71; Rumeli Caddesi 80, Nisantasi, Tel: 224 40 30; also at Akmerkez Shopping Mall, Etiler, Tel: 282 09 65-70 A young heayted spin-off of Vakko.
Yargici Valikonagi Caddesi 30, NiSantasi Tel: 2252912 The inventive patterns and colors in Yargici's men's and women's collection are all designed to harmonize. The label is best known foy its cottons, sweaters and men's shirts.
Food Charcuteries


The chaycuteries are Istanbul's answer to the New York delicatessen. Most of them sell cheeses, cured meats, sausages, prepared mezes and salads. Many make up sandwiches to go and sell wine and spirits.

Abant Ciftligi Valikonagi Caddesi 113, NiSantasi Tel: 247 17 65 A wide selection of Turkish and imported items including delicious sandwich filings.
Delicatessen Adnan Saygun Caddesi 17/1, Ulus-Etiler, Tel: 265 60 51 A large selection of charcuterie products, sandwiches and cooked dishes to take away. Has home delivery.
Konyali Emlak Kredi Carsisi, Levent Tel: 268 26 54; and Sirkeci (opposite the train station) Delicious, traditional charcuterie. Good hot food is served in an adjoining restaurant.
Santral Cevdetpasa Caddesi 22, Bebek Tel: 263 63 52 Quality charcuterie with a very good wine department.
Sütte Balikpazan, Galatasaray, Beyoglu Tel: 293 92 92; Etiler, Tel: 263 66 56 A city tradition, whose owneys are of Polish origin. The original is in Balikpazari; the rest are franchised. Sütte carries pork products such as sliced bacon which may be hard to find elsewheye.
Food Markets


Many neighbourhoods have weekly open-air markets selling cheap fresh fruit and vegetables straight from the farm. For example, the market in Cihangir is on Tuesdays. In Etiler it is on Thursdays, and in the Ihlamur area of Besiktas, on Saturdays and Wednesdays. Goods from the open-air merchants are generally cheaper than anything you can find in a grocery store; strolling the colourful, bustling markets while vendors call out advertisements for their ware is one of the highlights of life in Turkey.

Besiktas Carsisi A small square filled with stands selling fresh produce and fish. The simple restaurants surrounding the market serve tasty seafood lunches. The sauted fresh anchovies and balik koftesi should not be missed. Shops in the vicinity have a good selection of local cheeses, olives and honey. Several good bakeries.
The Egyptian or Spice Bazaar (Misir Carsisi) Eminonu The famous, exotic food market selling spices, dried fruits, as well as towels, slippers, baskets and some jewellery. Outside, to the left, there is a wonderful flower and bird mayket.
Eminonu Pazari To the right of Misir CarSisi (Spice Bazaar) A colourful, crowded market of fresh fruit and vegetables, fih, liver and other items including local cheeses, olives and pastirma, all enhanced by the aroma of coffee roasted at Kuru Kahveci Mehmet Efendi, the best coffee maker in town. Very little imported merchandise.
Galatasaray Fish Market (Balikpazar) Istiklal Caddesi, Galatasaray, Beyoglu Although the word means `Fish market', Balakpazari is much more than that. It is a daily market carrying wonderful produce including hard-to-find items like tere (garden cress), Beluga caviar; excellent bread and breadsticks; creme fraiche poured from a bucket. Also on sale are piles of fresh mushrooms; fresh ducks, geese, turkey (so named because at one time Europeans thought it came from this country) and quail; regional cheeses; farm eggs; herbs and spices; espyesso roast coffee beans. The market is home to a Sütte charcuterie.
Supermarkets Korona Alkent, Etiler A favourite of foreign residents who line up here on holidays to purchase such rare items as turkey, which is small in size but very tasty.
Makro Akmerkez Shopping Mall, Etiler, Tel: 2820311; Abdi Ipekçi Caddesi 24, Nisantasi, Tel: 248 94 55; and Kurucesme Truly a macro and smart supermarket, where you can find some rare delicacies.
MMM Migros Sisli, Tel: 246 64 80 Maslak, Tel: 285 23 50 A large, comprehensive market with more or less competitive prices. Good for stocking up on essentials; watch for the wine sales. Of the imports there are some nice housewares; most of the food items are locally manufactured. Other branches are located in Atakoy, Levent, Gayrettepe, Kadakoy, Merter Saskinbakkal, and a recently opened store as far out as Pendik on the Asian side. Soecialifv shovs Asadur Zorikoglu [coffee) Birinci Caddesi 94, Arnawtköy Tel: 263 58 99 A small shop selling fine Turkish coffee.
Asri Tursucu (pickles) Firozaga Cami Karsisi, Cihangir, Tel: 244 47 24, 25140 76 Selling delicious pickles of almost every fruit and vegetable since 1938.
Bunsa (spices) Galatasaray Fish Market 26, Beyoglu Best quality herbs, spices, jams.
Kurt Balikcilik [fish) Akmerkez Shopping Mall, Makro Super Centre, Etiler, Tel: 282 03 10 Seasonal fih, always fresh.
Kurukahveci Mehmet Efendi (coffee) Tahmis Caddesi 66, Eminonu Tel: 511 42 62 On one side of Misir Carsisi (literally corn bazaar but known as Egyptian, or Spice Bazaar), an Istanbul institution for fragrant, finely ground Turkish coffee.
Tiryaki (coffee) Sair Nigar Sokak, NiSantasi Espresso coffee beans, tea, dried fruits and nuts.
Urfa Pazari (caviar) Misir Carsisi (Egyptian Bazaar), No: 26, Eminonu, Tel: 526 11 18, 512 86 08 This is the only company and retail store that imports caviar legally. Stocks a good selection of fine caviars, as well as other foodstuffs.
Vefa Bozacici (boza drink) Ataturk Bulvari 146/B, Aksaray Tel: 527 66 08 Established in 1876 and still serving good boza-a special Turkish drink made from fermented millet.
Sweets Bebek Badem Ezmesi Cevdet Pasa Caddesi 238/l, Bebek, Tel: 263 59 84 Established in 1904 and still making wonderful almond and pistachio fondant (a sweetmeat similar to marzipan).
Cikolata Evi Bagdat Caddesi 304, Caddebostan, Tel: 346 65 20 A highly tempting pick'n mix store dedicated to top quality chocolates. Delicatessen
Hyatt Regency Istanbul, Taskisla Caddesi, Taksim Tel: 225 7000 Wide and tempting range of cakes, gateaux and handmade chocolates. Dolce Yaliboyu Cad., Engin Apt. 8, Arnavutkoy, Tel: 265 09 02, 265 58 74, Fax: 257 72 99 Dolce makes and designs spectacular cakes to order A sweet alternative present to flowers to celebrate birthdays or special events.
Haci Bekir Istiklal Caddesi 129, Beyoglu Tel: 245 13 75, Eminonu, Tel: 522 06 66, 522 14 61 Famous for its Turkish delight.
Inci Istiklal Caddesi 124/2, Beyoglu Tel: 243 24 12 Cakes and other sweets. Known for their memorable profiteroles.
Patisserie Cafe Marmara The Marmara Istanbul Hotel, Taksim, Tel: 25146 96 Best quality homemade cakes a chocolates. All major cards.
Patisserie Divan Akcam Sokak 28, Levent, Tel: 282 84 92 Divan Hotel, Taksim, Tel: 248 3173; Moda Caddesi, Kadikoy, Tel: 338 00 46 Splendid Hotel onu, Buyukada Tel: (216) 382 46 58 19 Mayis Caddesi, Golden Plaza Migros ici 2 Kat, Sisli, Tel: 247 30 95 Quality cakes and chocolates. Famous for marron glace, roccocco (an ice cream cake) and foret noir. Pleasant tea rooms.
Patisserie Gazebo Ciragan Palace Hotel Kempin Besiktas, Tel: 258 33 77. Great view of the Bosphorus and serving delicious pastries.
Patisserie Gezi/ Taksim Inonu Caddesi 5/1, Taksim Tel: 25174 30 Excellent cakes and handmade chocolates and pralines.
Patisserie Gezi/ Etiler Nispetiye Cad, Petrol Sitesi, 7 Blok, Etiler, Tel: 282 82 20/2 Recently opened off shoot from popular Taksim branch. Excel cakes, chocolates and handmade truffles.
Patisserie Monet Conrad Istanbul, Besiktas Tel: 227 30 00 Delicious French pastries, sweets chocolates for five o'clock tea. 10.00-21.00. All major cards.
Patisserie Opera Hotel Mercure Istanbul (ex- Pullman Etap), Tepebasi, Tel: 25146 46 Famousfoy its Tuykish Deligt well as wonderful chocolates.
Patisserie Renaissanc Istanbul Polat Renaissance Hotel Sahil Caddesi, Yesilyurt, Tel: 663 17 00 Good Danish crozssants, Swiss chocolate pralines, cakes and cookies. All fresh items are sold at half price after 20.00
Saray Tesvikiye Caddesi 137/A, Nisantasi Such delights as Turkish milk puddings, baklava and su böregifor breakfast.
Swiss Gourmet Shop Swissotel the Bosphorus, Macka, Tel: 259 O1 O1 Delicacies to awaken the most dormant tastebuds. A variety of cream cakes and fruit tarts, plus the exquisite Bosphorus Torte. Sandwiches and strong coffee. Half price afdeysundown.
Vakko Patisserie Istiklal Caddesi 123-125, Beyoglu Tel: 25140 92; Akmerkez Shopping Mall, Etiler, Tel: 282 06 95 (4 lines) Purveyors of the famous Vakko chocolates. A wide assortment all presented in exquisite packaging. Ideal for gifts.
Yeni Inci Profiterol Nispetiye Caddesi 11, Etiler, Tel: 257 32 28; also in Atakoy, Tel: 560 50 59, and Yesilkoy, Tel: 663 62 67 No yelation to the popular Beyoglu branch, but nevertheless serving great prof teroles, sticky cakes and lemonade. Has home delivery.
Jeweller , Watches & Accessories Antikart Istiklal Caddesi 209, inside the Atlas Cinema Passage, Atlas Kuyumcular Carsisi, Beyoglu, Tel: 252 44 82, 252 44 85 Beautiful silver and ethnic jewellery, some of it antique. Also a large collection of kilims.
Diamond Valikonagi Caddesi, Demir Han 30/B, Tel: 246 43 00 Akmerkez, Alt Carsisi, Tel: 282 02 85; Galleria, Ataköy Sahil Yolu, Tel: 559 76 34 Stocks a wide range of exclusive jewellery, and a collection offine watches, all made by Diamond. This highly respected outlet has been serving Istanbul foy ovey 30 yeas.
Mücevher Jewellery Rumeli Caddesi, Villa Ishani, 4-6, Nisantasi, Tel: 24134 61, 24178 90; Galleria Shopping Mall, No: DGRO 362, Tel: 559 35 42, 559 37 93 Gold rings, earrings, necklaces, cuff links made with oy without precious stones, as well as diamond jewellery. Only one piece is produced of each original design. In business since 1983.
Solitaire Akmerkez Shopping Mall 226, Etiler, Tel: 282 04 53 Original jewellery designs made with 18-caratgold, and diamond. Only a single piece is created from each design. Only retail shopping.
Tektas Ak Merkez Shopping Mall, 227, Etiler, Tel: 282 04 71; and Abdi Ipekci Caddesi, Altin Sokak, Nisantasi, Tel: 225 06 40 Fine Swiss watches and jewellery.
Urart Abdi Ipekci Caddesi 18/1, Nisantasi, Tel: 246 7194; Swissotel, Tel: 260 54 59 The delightful silver earrings, bracelets, rings and tableware items of this famous establishment often use ancient Anatolian designsfor inspiration. Also has an art gallery.
Vacheron Constantin Ciragan Caddesi, Ciragan Palace, Block B, No: 3, Besiktas, Tel: 259 25 45; Akmerkez Shopping Mall, Basement Floor, No:116, Etiler, Tel: 282 08 57; Valikonagi Caddesi, KoSe Apt. 101/1, Nisantasi, Tel: 23190 35, 246 00 30 This oldest Swiss watch company dating from the l7th century is now represented with a large collection in Istanbul. Their gold and diamond-decorated watches are all handmade and produced in small numbers.
Ziya Halaskargazi Caddesi 74-78, Harbiye, Tel: 246 55 92 Fine jewellery makers serving exclusive customers since 1965. Ethnic and moden collections designed in-house with top quality diamonds.
Leather Delta Ankara Highway, Kücükyali junction, Inönü Caddesi 4, Kucukyali, (on the Asian side), Tel: (216) 388 66 10 A large selection of quality but inexpensive leather wear, shoes and accessories.
Desa Akmerkez, Tel: 282 0413; Capitol Shopping Mall, Altunizade, Tel: (216) 343 07 59; Carrefour Shopping Centre, Erenkoy; Galleria, Tel: 559 96 20; Halaskargazi Caddesi 216, Osmanbey, Tel: 233 22 31; Istiklal Caddesi 140, Beyoglu, Tel: 243 37 86; Swissotel, Macka, Tel: 259 0213; Beneath the Merit Antique Hotel, Laleli, Tel: 528 0018 Top quality Turkish leather wear and accessories foy men and women. Modeyn and elegant designs. (Also repyesentatsves of Samsonite.)
Kuzu Prof. Muammer Aksoy Caddesi 17, Zeytinburnu, Tel: 547 40 95 (3 lines) Offers a large range of ready-to- wear leather and suede garments. Modello Nispetiye Caddesi 2/1, Etiler Tel: 257 74 65 Stylish leatherwear including some beautiful suede jackets.
Sultan Deri Iskele Caddesi 14, Beylerbeyi Tel: 32147 20 A very large variety of leather wear.
Shoes and Bags Caractere Mim Kemal Oke Caddesi 1/B, Nisantasi, Tel: 224 96 95 Very elegant and comfortable shoes from a pretty boutique. Sells exclusive intenational shoe brands such as Free Lance, Mosquitos, Stephane Kelian, Montana, Parallele and Joseph Azagury. Also bags and belts.
Desa Halaskargazi Caddesi 216, Osmanbey, Tel: 233 22 31 Istiklal Caddesi 140, Beyoglu, Tel: 243 37 86; also in Akmerkez, Galleria and Capitol shopping malls; and in Swissotel and Merit Antique Hotel. Top quality shoes and bags for men and women, made with premium grade leathers. Functional designs and expert craftmanship. (Also representatives of Samsonite.)
Divaresse Rumeli Caddesi 81, NisantaSi Tel: 231 86 98 Italian designs.
Elle Rumeli Caddesi 12, NiSantaSi Tel: 240 23 77 A large collection appealing to a youthful clientele.
Ertugrul Valikonagi Caddesi 101/A, Nisantasi, Tel: 240 30 52; also at Ak Merkez Shopping Mall, Etiler Chic and durable shoes for women.
Motic Tesvikiye Caddesi 135/1, Nisantasi, Tel: 247 74 55; Halaskargazi Caddesi, Osmanbey, Tel: 234 26 00; also at Ak Merkez Shopping Mall Big selection of stylish shoes foy women and men. Quality handbags. Opened a `shopping bay' servingfree tea, coffee etc. for weary shoppers.
May Covered Bazaar, Koltuk Kazaslar Sokak 10, Eminonu, Tel: 526 68 23; Covered Bazaar, Kolancilar Sokak 7, Eminonu. Very pretty, home-designed handbags, wallets, briefcases and backpacks made with handwoven kilims. Also some clothing.
Seyitagaogullari Tavukhane Sokak 30, Sultanahmet Tel: 51812 95 This shop makes use of kilims and flat weave rugs to cyeate shoes and bags. Sipahi Mair Nigar Sokak, Nisantasi Classical styles for women. Excellent quality.